TRES LECHES CAKE

In case you haven't looked at a calendar, watched the news, or glanced at your phone... today marks the first day of May! Normally I would feel pretty indifferent about this, but this year I'm welcoming May with open arms: next month my sister, Tianna, is getting married! To say that I am ecstatic is a complete understatement, and even though a lot of planning and coordinating must be done from now until the big day, I know it will all come out perfectly!

For the wedding, not only am I in the wedding party, but I also have been asked to make ALL the desserts, including the wedding cake (the wedding will have over 100 people). When my sister had asked me months ago to do the desserts, I was pretty hesitant (read: HORRIFIED) and was worried that I would mess something up and ruin the day. But after much thought and talking to my friends and family, I decided I would be crazy not to. Doing the desserts for a wedding will be my biggest accomplishment thus far in my baking career, and I know that after the day is over, I will feel pretty triumphant. And if I screw something up, like burning the cookies or making an uneven cake (knock on wood), life will go on and I'm sure we'll all get a good laugh out of it.

I'm not going to reveal what I'm baking just yet, but one idea I had was to make this Tres Leches cake. For dinner at the wedding, we are eating tacos with rice and beans and plenty of chips and salsa, catered by an amazing taco spot in Los Angeles (Sky's Gourmet Tacos), so I figured a Mexican/Latin American cake would work out perfectly. But alas, my sister and her fiancé decided on something more simple and easier for me to bake, so I happily obliged. 

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With that said, a Tres Leches cake is still a wonderful option for any type of celebration, especially considering what this Saturday is (Cinco de Mayo!!!). I personally have made it for birthday parties (including my boyfriend's 30th) and backyard BBQs and it's always a hit. For those of you who don't know, "tres leches"  translates to "three milks". This has to do with soaking the cake in a combination of sweetened condensed milk, evaporated milk, and heavy cream.  Additionally, there is whole milk baked into the cake so it's safe to assume that anyone who is lactose-intolerant should stay far away from this cake and allow the milk fans to enjoy it!

The recipe for a Tres Leches cake can be broken down into three components: 1) the baking of the cake 2) the "poke and soak" aspect that entails filling the cake with a liquid and 3) the topping. All three components are quite straightforward and shouldn't give you any trouble unless you are not familiar with beating egg whites into soft, and eventually, stiff peaks. This step is important in making a perfect texture for the cake, and so I would suggest clicking here if you need some guidance.

Lastly, you may choose to decorate the cake in whichever way you wish.  Usually, the cake slices will have a maraschino cherry on top but I also like to add a good amount of sprinkles (I got this idea via the restaurant Trois Familia in Los Angeles). Whichever way you choose, it'll still be beautiful with the fresh whipped topping.

 

Tres Leches Cake

Recipe adapted from Smitten Kitchen

Ingredients

  • Butter and flour for cake pan, or nonstick cooking spray

  • 1 3/4 cup all-purpose flour

  • 1/4 cup cornstarch

  • 2 tsp. baking powder

  • 1/2 tsp. kosher salt

  • 6 large eggs, whites and yolks separated, room temperature

  • 2 tsp. vanilla extract

  • 1 1/4 cup sugar

  • 1/4 cup whole milk

  • 1 12 oz. can evaporated milk

  • 1 14oz. can sweetened condensed milk

  • 1 1/2 cup heavy cream

  • 1-2 tbsp. dark rum (optional)

  • 2 cups heavy cream (this is for the whipped cream topping)

  • 2 tbsp. confectioners' or granulated sugar (for whipped cream topping)

Directions

  1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Generously butter and flour (or spray with nonstick cooking spray) a 9" by 13" baking pan and set aside.

  2. In a small bowl, whisk together flour, cornstarch, baking powder and salt.

  3. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment (or in a large bowl if using a hand mixer), beat the egg whites on medium speed until soft peaks form. With the mixer still going, slowly add the sugar and bring the speed up to medium-high until stiff peaks form. Add the vanilla extract and mix until incorporated.

  4. To the bowl, add one egg yolk at a time, mixing thoroughly before adding another. Add the whole milk and beat until combined, followed by adding the flour mixture in three additions.

  5. Pour the batter into the baking dish and bake in the oven for 18-24 minutes (or until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean). Allow cake to cool completely before moving on to the next step.

  6. In a large bowl, ideally one with a spout, whisk together the evaporated milk, sweetened condensed milk, heavy cream, and rum (if using). Using a toothpick or a fork, poke holes all over the cake including the edges, and pour the liquid milk mixture on top. Refrigerate the cake for at least a couple of hours, but if time allows, refrigerate overnight. The more time the cake sits, the more time for the cake to absorb the liquid.

  7. After refrigerating, make the whipped cream topping. In the bowl of a stand mixer using the whisk attachment, beat together the heavy cream (2 cups) and sugar (2 tbsp.) until soft peaks form. Spread evenly over the cake, top with maraschino cherries and/or sprinkles, and enjoy!

HOMEMADE RICOTTA + RICOTTA ICE CREAM

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Do any of you watch Chef's Table on Netflix? I sincerely hope that most of you reading this answered "Yes, of course I do, it's amazing!", but to those of you who haven't had the chance to yet, let me fill you in. Chef's Table is a documentary series with each episode dedicated to a single world-renowned chef. In each hour-long episode, the viewer learns the trials and tribulations that each chef went through in order to reach success. In addition to learning each chef's fascinating journey, we are treated to some of the most beautiful cinematography: almost every frame is a work of art. 

Earlier this month, Netflix released the fourth season of Chef's Table but this time having a focus on pastry chefs. Naturally, I was ecstatic and watched all four episodes as quickly as I could. Of the four chefs featured, I found great inspiration from Corrado Assenza, a fourth-generation owner of a cafe in Sicily, Italy (Caffè Sicilia) that is known to have the best Sicilian desserts in all of Sicily and perhaps all of Italy. 

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Throughout the episode, we see Corrado make a variety of desserts and pastries including granita, cannoli, and gelato. Not only does Corrado execute these sweets perfectly, but he also stresses the importance of quality ingredients. For example: to make excellent ricotta gelato, Corrado closely works with a local dairy farmer who he has a strong relationship with and, in his opinion, has the best ricotta in the land. It if weren't for this relationship with this particular dairy farmer, Corrado's gelato wouldn't be perfect. The importance of not only using quality ingredients, but working with quality people/vendors is Corrado's modus operandi. 

This level of dedication that Corrado has for his ingredients, and therefore everything he makes, was undoubtedly inspiring to me. It excited me to the point where I wanted to take my skills to the next level and make my own ricotta cheese from scratch and in turn, make my own gelato (or ice cream). I had made ricotta ice cream before but I had used store-bought ricotta and even though the gelato turned out to be good, I had a feeling I could make it great. 

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So, I googled how to make ricotta and to my surprise it is about the easiest thing one can do. With a large pot, some cheesecloth, and only 4 ingredients (whole milk, heavy cream, salt, and lemon juice) you can make a beautiful batch of fresh and creamy ricotta in no time. The recipe I'm giving you yields about two cups which is exactly enough to make for the ice cream recipe that I also give below. If you do not wish to make ice cream with your ricotta, go ahead and use it in any way your little heart desires (use it in lasagna, on toast with fresh jam, in a raspberry cake, etc.). 

If you are planning on using the ricotta for the ice cream recipe, allow the ricotta to drain in the cheesecloth for the full hour; we want a rather dry ricotta (it'll spread almost like a cream cheese would) for the ice cream. But if are using the ricotta for any other purposes, drain to the consistency that you personally prefer (anywhere from 10 to 60 minutes).

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Notes for the ricotta ice cream recipe below:

I can sincerely say that this ricotta ice cream is one of the most delicious and creamiest desserts I have ever made in my kitchen, and I genuinely believe it is all due to the homemade ricotta. If you are up for the challenge, please try to make the ricotta and use it for this ice cream recipe; you won't regret it.

Like I stated above, Corrado is a proponent of using good, quality ingredients. So if you have the means to, try opting for organic or raw ingredients. Using organic eggs in a recipe where they are such an integral part of the recipe (the ice cream is custard-based) will really make a difference in taste. I also bought organic raw honey from Trader Joe's and now I don't think I can ever go back to the normal stuff. BUT, we aren't all Rockefellers here; if you don't want to spend the extra cash for these ingredients, you don't have to! It'll still taste amazing. 

Lastly, I am calling this recipe "ice cream" and not gelato for a couple of reasons: 1) traditional Sicilian gelato does not use eggs in their recipes and 2) gelato is made with more milk than cream - in the recipe I provide, we only use cream and get the "milk" aspect from the whole milk ricotta used. 

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Homemade Ricotta

Yields about 2 cups

Recipe adapted from Epicurious

Ingredients

  • 2 quarts (half gallon) whole milk

  • 1 cup heavy cream

  • 1 1/2 tsp. salt

  • 1/4 cup lemon juice

Directions

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  1. Line a colander with at least three layers of cheesecloth and place the colander over a very large bowl to catch liquid.

  2. Over medium-low heat, bring the milk, heavy cream, and salt to a rolling boil. Depending on how cold your ingredients are, this could take up to 10 minutes. Stir occasionally to prevent scorching.

  3. Once boiling, add the lemon juice and reduce the heat to low. Stir constantly until the milk mixture begins to curdle. This may take a couple of minutes.

  4. Pour the mixture over the cheesecloth and allow to drain for an hour (read above about draining times for ricotta).

  5. Discard the liquid (whey), and transfer the ricotta to a covered container. Store in the fridge for up to one week.

Ricotta Ice Cream

Yields about 1 quart

Recipe adapted from David Lebovitz

Ingredients  

  • 1 cup heavy cream

  • 1/2 cup sugar

  • pinch of salt

  • 5 large egg yolks

  • 1/4 cup honey

  • 2 cups whole-milk ricotta

  • 2 tsp. dark rum (optional)

  • 1 tsp. fresh lemon juice

  • 1/4-1/2 cup roughly chopped pistachios

  • 1/4-1/2 cup finely diced candied citrus (orange, lemon, lime - I used mandarin)

Directions

  1. In a small saucepan, bring heavy cream, sugar, and salt to an almost simmer - you just want to warm up the mixture. Meanwhile, prepare an ice bath by placing a metal or glass bowl in a larger bowl that is filled with ice and water. Place a strainer over the smaller bowl.

  2. In a separate bowl, whisk the egg yolks together and set aside.

  3. When the cream mixture has heated up, begin to gradually add some of it to the bowl of egg yolks, whisking constantly as to not scramble the eggs (this is called tempering). Once the egg yolk mixture temperature has raised, pour the mixture into the sauce pan. Stir constantly over medium heat until the mixture thickens and coats the back of your spatula or spoon.

  4. Pour the custard over the strainer in the prepared ice bath and stir until it has cooled down.

  5. After cooled, pour the custard into a blender along with the ricotta, honey, and dark rum (if using) and puree until smooth, about 45 seconds. Transfer mixture to a covered container and refrigerate until chilled.

  6. Stir in the lemon juice, and churn the ice cream in your maker (time will vary depending on what kind of ice cream maker you have - I have this one, and it took less than 20 minutes). The consistency will be on the "soft-serve" side, rather than a regular ice cream. It will firm up in the freezer. Be careful not to over-churn.

  7. When done churning, transfer to a container and mix in the pistachios and candied citrus. Freeze until ready to serve.

BAKED LEMON GLAZED DOUGHNUTS

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I have a pretty funny relationship with doughnuts. Growing up, my mom would have these huge garage sales (we're talking hundreds of clothes for sale) and my sister, Tianna, and I would have to get up at the crack of dawn to help my mom put up signs around the neighborhood and drag everything from the garage to the driveway. My sister and I absolutely hated doing it, and so the only way my mom could get us to help was by treating us early on with a box of doughnuts from Yum Yum Donuts or Winchell's. Tianna and I were pretty lazy kids, but when food was promised we happily obliged (somewhat).

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This association of doughnuts with garage sales has remained in my mind ever since and so I never really crave doughnuts unless for *special morning occasions* - getting up early for flea market excursions or before long road trips. I honestly beg my mom all the time to have garage sales solely for the excuse to eat a box of doughnuts. Yes, I know I can go buy a box of doughnuts whenever I please but it just wouldn't be the same!

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My favorite kind of doughnut has been and always will be a Long John, the yeast risen unfilled doughnut bar with chocolate icing. With that said, I have never attempted to re-create Long Johns at home, or any fried doughnuts for that matter. I guess I've just been a little scared of the hot oil and making a greasy mess in my kitchen. Best to leave the frying to the professionals (for now!).

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But when it comes to baking doughnuts, I have no problem whipping up a batch whenever Alex has a hankering for a slightly healthier version of doughnuts. What makes baking doughnuts so much easier than frying is 100% due to the invention of the doughnut pan, With this amazing contraption, you don't have to worry about cutting out perfect circles or deal with removing the centers; the hard work is done for you. I will say that baked doughnuts do taste very different than fried doughnuts in the sense that they taste more like cake, but listen to me when I say that they are still very delicious and will satiate your doughnut cravings.

I've made a variety of baked doughnut over the years and one of my favorites was a lemon poppyseed recipe. This time around I decided to simply do a lemon doughnut with a lemon glaze and leave it up to the baker on which topping to add: pistachios, freeze dried raspberries (strawberries will work as well), or poppyseed. All three of these toppings compliment lemon very well and give nice texture to the light and cakey pastries. Feel free to mix it up and use multiple toppings (pistachios and freeze dried raspberries look gorgeous together). 

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Baked Lemon Glazed Doughnuts

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Recipe adapted from Williams Sonoma Taste

Yields 14-16 doughnuts

Ingredients

For the doughnuts:

  • Nonstick cooking spray

  • 1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour

  • 1/4 tsp. baking soda

  • 3/4 tsp. baking powder

  • 1/4 tsp. salt

  • 1/3 cup milk (any kind will work)

  • 1/3 cup buttermilk

  • Zest and juice from 1 lemon

  • 1/2 cup sugar

  • 6 tbsp. unsalted butter, room temperature

  • 1 large egg, room temperature

  • 2 tsp. vanilla extract

For the lemon glaze:

  • 2 cups confectioners' sugar

  • 4 tbsp. unsalted butter, melted

  • 2-4 tbsp. milk (any kind)

  • 2 tbsp. lemon juice

  • 1 1/2 tsp. vanilla extract

  • Chopped roasted pistachios, crumbled freeze dried raspberries, and/or poppyseed, to finish (optional)

Directions

  1. Preheat oven to 375°F. Spray doughnuts pan(s) with nonstick cooking spray. In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, baking soda, baking powder and salt.

  2. In a measuring cup, combine milk, buttermilk, and lemon juice.

  3. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment (or in a large bowl that you will use with your hand mixer), mix sugar and lemon zest by hand until combined and very fragrant. Add the butter and beat on medium-low speed until light and fluffy, about 3 minutes. Add the egg and vanilla extract and mix again for about 1 minute. Scrape down the sides of the bowl.

  4. With the stand mixer on low speed, alternate between adding the flour mixture and liquid mixture to the stand mixer bowl in 3 additions, starting and ending with the flour. Mix until well combined.

  5. Spoon the batter (it will be pretty thick) into a large Ziploc bag. Cut off one of the bottom corners of the bag and pipe the batter into the doughnut cavities, filling no more than 2/3 of the pan. This step is crucial because if you just use a spoon to fill the cavities, the doughnuts will come out of the oven looking lumpy! Use this video for guidance on how to pipe with a Ziploc bag.

  6. Bake in the oven for about 10 minutes, rotating halfway through, until the edges are lightly brown. Continue filling doughnut cavities and baking until all batter is used up. Let the doughnuts cool in the pan for a couple of minutes before transferring to a wire rack lined with parchment paper. Allow doughnuts to cool while making the glaze.

  7. Make the glaze: in a large bowl, whisk all glaze ingredients together. For a thicker glaze, use 2-3 tbsp. of milk (this is what I did); add 1-2 tbsp. for a thinner glaze.

  8. Dip one side of the doughnut into the glaze and immediately top with either chopped pistachios, freeze dried raspberries, or poppyseed.